The Mysterious Cape
Unexpected Discovery Of An Art Deco Fashion Masterpiece In The Basement Of A NYC Vintage Store Begins A Long Quest.
The life and work of forgotten artist, Sara Lipska, is revealed. A Polish Jewish emigrant to Paris, Sara transforms into a multifaceted visionary star of the avant-garde.
The Myrbor Cape
- Merrily Murray-Walsh
Merrily discovered a bulky canvas bin overflowing with clothing in the basement. As she sorted through the pile, she noticed a gold lamé fabric—often used in the 1920s—which turned out to be the inner lining of a cape.
The cape had a hand embroidered label sewn at the back of the neck.
But who designed it?
The adventure of the mysterious cape began.
Photos cannot capture the depth and breadth of the unique embroidery design—the swirling, undulating, abstract sea life images moving gently through water. The multi-colored metallic threads create a shimmering effect and the distinctive whip stitch embroidery gives depth and dimension to the figures.
The embroidery features an asymmetrical design along both sides of the center front opening and across the back hem.
The Maison Myrbor insignia was designed by its founder, Marie Cuttoli. Born in France, Marie was a self-made individual with a deep passion for creativity and quality.
Marie engaged a number of skilled artisans to produce fashion and décor of outstanding quality. Notably, Sara Lipska, a young Jewish artist from Poland, was commissioned to design the distinguished cape.
Sara Lipska (1882–1973)
Sara Lipska started life in Mlawa, Poland and was raised in an Orthodox Jewish family with three siblings.
In 1904, Sara began art studies at Warsaw's Academy of Fine Arts, joining its first co-ed class. She worked as assistant professor to sculptor Xawery Dunikowski, with whom she developed a lifelong partnership.
After becoming pregnant, she left her studies and gave birth to their daughter, Maria, in Brussels in 1908.
In 1912, Sara and her daughter, Maria Xawera Dunikowska emigrated to Paris. Despite the challenges of being a single mother, Sarah Lipska successfully established an independent life and career.
From 1900 to 1939, Paris served as a center of refuge and opportunity for emigrant artists and craftspeople from across Europe. Polish and Russian Jewish émigré artists formed communities in the city, fostering collaboration and creative expression.
2025 marks 100 years since the Art Deco movement began and the Cape was created.
Skilled artisans arrived in Paris after the Russian Revolution, including many women who were experts in needlework. Their talents were vital in creating detailed embroidery and couturier fashion. The Ballets Russes, founded by Russian exiles, greatly influenced the Parisian artistic scene through its performances during this period.
Sara Lipska was a versatile artist who worked alongside prominent avant-garde figures in Paris during the interwar years. During this period, women such as Sara began to receive greater acknowledgment and were increasingly recognised for their expertise and potential.
Paris emerged as a pivotal hub in the early development of modern art and architecture. During this period, artists and designers departed from established conventions, engaging in collaboration and mutual learning to advance their creative pursuits.
The cape has joined the existing Lipska collection at the Palais Galliera, the fashion museum of Paris.
Anna Czarnocka
Art Collection Curator, Polish Museum, Paris
Florence Michelin-Garnier
Lipska-Dunikowska Trustee
Merrily Murray-Walsh Writer/Producer/Costume Designer
The rediscovery and repatriation of the formerly enigmatic cape to Paris, its original city, may serve as a catalyst for continued scholarly investigation and research focused on honouring Sara Lipska’s enduring legacy.
Palais Galliera
10 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie,
Paris 16, 75116 Paris, France
Palais Galliera online ›
"The Palais Galliera Resource Centre houses a vast collection of some 13,000 works, exclusively accessible for costume and fashion research purposes. This collection is complemented by archives focusing on the exhibitions organized in the Palais Galliera before 1977 (Industrial Arts period), along with exceptional documents, with collections themed around recounting the history of fashion."